The Rug Bug (Confessions Of A Rug-addict)

by John Ash
Published: 09 July 2007 2:56 a.m.

When did my obsession begin? It must have been at some point in the 90s. Certainly, I remember returning from Van in 1994 ladened with rugs. Both the rugs and the dealers I bought them from were Kurdish. This is an important point. Not all the rugs you will find in Turkey are, strictly speaking, Turkish. <p>If they come from eastern Anatolia they are more likely to be Kurdish and Turkish dealers import extensively from Iran and the Central Asian republics, especially Turkmenistan. One of the great pleasures of rug collecting is the process of selection. This is a leisurely and rather courtly business involving the consumption of large quantities of tea. A good dealer will never try to rush you into making a purchase, and you should not haggle aggressively, as this will cause serious offense. If a rug that you like costs more than you want to pay; simply say so. The price may come down a little, or it may not. It is still possible to find good quality, handmade pieces for as little as $250. The best places to look for rugs are the Grand Bazaar and the Sultan Ahmet district, especially the Arasta Bazaar, behind the Blue Mosque. </p>